The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Right DHA %, Rinse Time, and Bronzer for Every Client ✨
When it comes to spray tanning, one of the biggest mistakes new artists make is assuming every client can be sprayed the same way.
Same solution. Same rinse time. Same bronzer.
But the truth?
Every client’s skin type and undertone should play a role in your solution choice. The way their skin reacts to DHA, how quickly it develops, and which bronzer tones look most natural all depend on their unique skin makeup.
Understanding these factors is what separates a good tan from a professional, flawless, and truly customized one.
Step One: Understanding Skin Type and DHA %
Before we get into rinse times or undertones, let’s talk about DHA—the active ingredient that creates the tan. DHA reacts with the amino acids in the outer layer of the skin to produce color, and different skin types process DHA differently.
The easiest way to categorize skin types for tanning purposes is using the Fitzpatrick Scale, which classifies skin by how it reacts to UV exposure. But instead of worrying about memorizing numbers, here’s how to think about it in spray-tan terms:
Fair / Fitzpatrick I–II: “The Easily Burnt Babes’’
These clients burn easily, rarely tan naturally, and have pink or red undertones.
Their skin tends to overdevelop quickly, meaning even a medium DHA strength can go too dark or too warm.
Best DHA range: 6-9% OR a low rinse time if using a rapid
Pro Tip: Less is more. Use a lighter DHA or a lower rinse time, to start. You may come to find that individual clients can handle higher DHA % and longer rinse times.
Medium / Fitzpatrick III–IV: “The Golden Girls”
These clients tan moderately to easily, with undertones that can range from neutral to golden.
Their skin is the most flexible—you can adjust DHA and rinse time depending on the desired result.
Best DHA range: 10%–14%, 2-6 hour rinse times with rapid
Olive / Deep / Fitzpatrick V–VI: “The Naturally Bronzed Queens”
These clients rarely burn and tan very easily. Their skin can handle deeper DHAs without pulling brassy or unnatural.
Best DHA range: 9%–16%
Pro Tip: Higher DHAs aren’t about “getting darker” — they’re about achieving a richer depth that complements the client’s natural melanin level.
⏱ Step Two: Rinse Time and Color Development with Rapid Solutions
Rapid tans changed the game—but they also confused a lot of artists.
The truth is, rinse time doesn’t stop the tan from developing. It just determines how much DHA is left on the skin during the initial reaction phase.
Think of it like “setting” a timer on the depth of your tan.
A rapid tan continues developing for up to 24 hours after rinsing. The color you see right after the rinse isn’t the final result—it’s still maturing beneath the surface.
So how does skin type play into rinse time?
Fair clients: Shorter rinse (1-3 hours). Leaving it longer risks over-development or orange tones.
Medium clients: 3-5 hours for a perfect balance.
Deep clients: 3–6+ hours for optimal richness.
If your client says, “I want to be dark, but I’m nervous,” always err on the side of a shorter rinse and have them rebook in a few days if they want to go darker next time. Educating them builds trust—and keeps their color flawless.
🎨 Step Three: Undertones and Bronzer Bases
This is where artistry really comes in.
Even if you choose the perfect DHA, using the wrong bronzer tone can throw off the entire result. The bronzer is what gives clients instant gratification—it’s the “see it now” color before DHA develops. But it also plays a role in balancing undertones and preventing unwanted hues by lightly staining the skin.
Cool / Pink or Red Undertones
These clients often look flushed, burn easily, and have blue veins.
Using a warm or red-brown bronzer will make them look sunburnt or brassy.
Best match: Sunkissed, Smoke Show, Original
Warm / Yellow or Golden Undertones
These clients tan easily and have greenish veins or golden skin.
Using a golden or orange bronzer can make them look overly warm or unnatural.
Best match: AF Violet, Original, Bombshell, Smoke Show
Neutral Undertones
These clients have a balance of pink and yellow tones.
Almost anything works, but the bronzer you choose will slightly shift the vibe:
Red-brown bronzer (Bombshell) = warm, sunkissed finish
Violet or ash (Smoke Show, AF Violet) = cool, deep contrast
Olive-neutral (Original, Sunkissed) = natural glow
When in doubt, look at their natural skin in neutral light—the undertone that peeks through is your guide. A quick test: hold a white towel next to their face. If their skin looks pink, go cool. If it looks yellow or golden, go violet/ash. If it’s hard to tell—it’s neutral!
When we created Glazed Sunless, we wanted artists to have ready-to-use, pre-customized bronzers that eliminated all the guesswork.
You don’t have to be a chemist to get it right—you just have to understand your client’s skin and grab the right bottle.
Sunkissed: Olive-brown base | Perfect for fair, pink/red toned skin
Original: Violet, Olive, Brown | Universal
AF Violet: Violet brown base | Cancels out yellow and warm tones
Smoke Show: Ash brown | Deep, cool-toned finish for high contrast
Bombshell: Red-brown | Rich, sunkissed warmth
Your solution choice should never be random—it should be intentional.
Once you master how skin type, undertone, and rinse time work together, you’ll start seeing every client as a unique formula instead of just a “light, medium, or dark” tan. That’s how you go from being a spray tan artist to being a spray tan specialist.
The more personalized your process, the more your clients trust you—and that trust translates into referrals, glowing reviews, and lifelong loyal customers.
So before your next appointment, take the extra 60 seconds to analyze their skin, tone, and goals.
You’ll never guess again—and your results will show it. 💋